Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Reverse Osmosis and Deionized Water Filtration

!9#: Reverse Osmosis and Deionized Water Filtration

Let's face it if you are in a business needing de-ionized water or reverse osmosis water you are always concerned about the quality of your water. I know as a mobile detailing business that when we have ultra clean water in our tanks we are a happy camper. We know it will make your job so much easier. We also like the idea and concept of spot free water. Have you ever considered how Reverse Osmosis really works? Let me describe the process from my industries perspective.

In R.O. water pressure forces water through a fine membrane that filters out between 85-95% of the dissolved solids in the water. Water lacking these solids won't water spot a car. It's important to have soft water filter inline the R.O. system prior to R.O. Some systems have a water softener/carbon filter/R.O. system in that order. This saves life on the R.O. membranes. R.O. units are measured in gallons per day (GPD) because there flow is relatively slow. Usually they run twenty-four hours a day and the water is put into a storage tank to be used later. Small R.O. units that cost between ,500 and ,000 put out 4 gpm. To go to 10 gpm, the speed at which you'd want to fill your tank, the cost of those units starts at ,000.

Car washes need units that make between 500 to 1000 gallons a day for the rinse cyles. A small unit will work because 4 GPM (gallons per minute) X 60 minutes is 240 gallons. So, in four hours at night when the car wash isn't being used, they will have one thousand plus gallons. The only problem for them is that a thousand gallon tank is five feet wide and eight feet tall.

An R.O. machine works best when it's running clean water through it. Otherwise, the membranes let nature take over. Then you have not reverse osmosis but osmosis. It's better to have a small machine running twenty-four hours a day than a big machine running two hours and then shutting off. R.O. membranes should have a constant positive flow through them. Some industry leaders believe twelve to thirteen hours is the maximum you should run an R.O. unit a day. They think the machine will last longer.

Silica, iron, aluminum and bacteria cause irreversible damage to membranes and that's why pre-filters are a must to keep membranes from fouling. Fouling results when particles suspended in the feed water are deposited within the R.O. unit. Fouling reduces permeate flow rate. Bacteria fouling usually doesn't cause the permeate conductivity to increase until your system is extremely plugged. Other particles may cause permeate conductivity to increase.

Most biological and particulate silica foulants can be removed with the proper chemicals. Bio-fouling is a problem. Pre-treatment may have little impact on R.O. unit fouling. Simply killing the bacteria won't work because the same number of fouling particles (living or dead) still enter the R.O. unit. The best way to handle bio-fouling is cleaning the equipment and the upstream pipes and filters. Chlorinated water will be bad and should be un-chlorinated before entering the R.O. unit. Fouling by non-living particles is handled by your pre-filters, or additional sediment filters or cartridge filters with a nominal filtration rating of five microns or less. This can be complicated stuff and you can call your franchsior for a telephone number of a fair and honest local or regional water purification consultant.

Chlorine is the most common agent to chemically attack and destroy the polyamide thin film membranes that are commonly used in car washes. Activated carbon blocks are used generally in filters upstream from R.O. units. Larger units use granulated carbon filters or other methods. Active chlorine consuming sites on the activated carbon material is depleted over time and eventually dechlorination will diminish and finally cease. This will allow chlorine to damage downstream chlorine sensitive membranes in your R.O. unit. Carbon filters must be replaced as frequently as their manufacturers specify.

Most commercial R.O. units are too small to justify installing instrumentation to determine when to clean them. Cleaning periodically can remove most scalants and foulants. If you wait too long permanent damage will be done and proper cures will not work. If you wait until you have low flow problems, the elements may be plugged significantly and chemical cleaning may be ineffective or may take many hours to get the elements back to near original performance.

If you want, you can have the R.O. dealer do periodic cleaning on a service contract. It may be worth your while. Expect to pay between to 0 per quarter. Watch for parts price gouging. Some companies are like sharks. If well taken care of, the membranes will last years. You may want to have a technician also check upstream filters. That way, if anything does go wrong, it's their responsibility and you can make them pay. Make sure your contract is tied to their lifetime warrantee. Regular Maintenance Of Reverse Osmosis Units is ultra important and you should change your prefilters often. Water softeners every month, carbon filters quarterly. Be sure to check the pressures weekly and membranes will need changing every so often too. Think on this.


Reverse Osmosis and Deionized Water Filtration

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Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater Review

!9#: Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater Review

Looking for a light and easy to install water heating system? Then the Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater could be the right one for you. It is an ideal water heating system that is being used for mobile homes, trailers, RVs and as an inline, point-of-use booster. This model delivers hot water from the main line in as fast as 1 to 2 seconds.

Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater Price

The price is quite reasonable and because it's not very large in size, you can even buy it online and have it shipped to your home without paying an arm and a leg.

Usage Considerations

Be certain you register your Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater in order to keep your warranty in full effect. There is a warranty claim form available on the Reliance website.

If you use a salt-based water softener, flush your water system at least once a year by shutting off your water softener for 2 weeks. This will allow the water to clean out all corrosive salt deposits in the water heater. You could shut off the water softener for a week in the summer and then again for a week in the winter, but be certain to flush for 2 weeks per year.

Specifications & Regulations

Size: 15 1/4" tall, 14 1/8" diameter
Weight: 35 lbs (37 lbs shipping weight)
Single stainless steel heating element, 120 Volt, 1650 watt)
6 gallon glass lined tank (tube shape))
Factory installed temperature and pressure relief valve)
Side mounted cold water inlet and hot water outlet for easy installation)
6 year warranty on tank and parts)
Recharge complete 6 gallons in 30 minutes)
R-Value 16,000)
4,500 watts/ hour input)
External thermostat and heat adjustment switch)
Drain valve on the side at the bottom of the water heater (threaded to take a hose)

These types of systems are becoming more and more popular as the ways in which they can be used has increased.

Overall, this unit is a great solution for those areas where you need to add a more reliable source of immediately hot water but don't want to install a full tank unit.

Check out how the Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater compares with other water heaters. See the complete details of the review at Water Heater Reviews.


Reliance 6 6 SOMS K 6 Gallon Compact Electric Water Heater Review

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Water Volume Usage in Boat Hull Cleaning

!9# Water Volume Usage in Boat Hull Cleaning

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When cleaning boats with a crew on dry dock one must consider water usage and time to wash, as these will affect the variable costs of each unit cleaned. Additionally it will be important to average the number of boats of various sizes, which one expects to wash with the estimated time to wash each size. The amount of water anticipated in usage will be a factor also for the environmental filtering of the wash water.

Most high-pressure hot water units put our about 4.6 gallons per minute to 5 Gpm; a well trained boat washing crew could clean a 30 foot hull, by doing in quarter sections at a time, in about 8-10 minutes per quarter. This is if dirty, fairly bad. But you would not be spraying the whole time. The crew would rinse it good and brush and then rinse it again. With inline injection system one might find that the length of hose was 80-100 feet and that takes 1:00 to feed soap and 1:00 to rinse. If you did this 2 times per quarter then you need to add 8 minutes to the total job. However when feeding soap the pressure is dropped down and there would be a slight different in the amount of water used but not much because even though the pumps is not working as hard the volume of water only fluctuates a little, but still realize you feed 8 more minutes at the 4.6 GPM.

It maybe advisable to use a different unit to apply soap and thus saving the 8-minute feed time for soap, allow for additional dwell time of soap on the boat hull and reduce the time to clear the line for regular rinse water to move from the pump to the high-pressure spray nozzle. One could go with an airless sprayer system, Hudson industrial type spray or another cold-water pressure washer of 5 HP that put out 1.8 GPM, Honda has a nice little unit for this. However for the 4.6-5 GPM spray unit it is recommended to go with an industrial skid unit. I recommend a Hydrotek Hot Water Pressure Washer Machine for this use.

http://www.hydroteksystems.com/

So lets be safe and say that you will use 58 minutes to clean the 30-foot boat hull and of that you might be spraying about 30-40 minutes for dirty boats, with film and crud on them? Now then to average out your usage think of how many boats and which sizes you will be washing, this I do not know, as each Marina will be different, however one might assume those folks with larger boats would have the money to pay you to clean them more often, this is what we have found. Now then, a not so dirty boat 30-foot you should be looking at 20 minutes wash time total minus soap feed time for inline injection unless you have another unit to spray on the soap.

Below are articles I have written relating on this subject, which can assist anyone starting a boat cleaning business or expanding a current business. Think on this.

http://ezinearticles.com/?Rotary-Boat-Hull-Cleaning-Systems&id=69179

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Hull-Cleaning-Equipment-Needed&id=36461

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Hull-Cleaning-Procedures-for-Owners-and-Detailers&id=36464

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Cleaning-Business-Bilge-Clean-up-Tips&id=25176

http://ezinearticles.com/?Meguiars-RV-and-Marine-Boat-Cleaners-and-Waxes-Test-Results&id=31238%20

http://ezinearticles.com/?Future-of-Robotic-Vessel-Hull-Cleaning&id=68832

http://ezinearticles.com/?AUV-Solar-Powered-to-Monitor-Lake-Ponchartrain&id=70284

http://ezinearticles.com/?Debates-in-Auto-Detailing&id=38845

http://ezinearticles.com/?Maximum-Efficiency-in-Auto-Detailing-Shops&id=38779

http://ezinearticles.com/?Robotic-Underwater-Boat-Hull-Cleaners-Have-Military-Applications&id=68845

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Washing--Spring-is-Here,-Lets-Go-Boating&id=24206

http://ezinearticles.com/?Robotic-Boat-Cleaning-is-Here,-Soon-it-will-be-Affordable&id=25574

http://ezinearticles.com/?Water-Filtration-Choice-for-Mobile-Car-Washes-and-Detailing&id=41785

http://ezinearticles.com/?Water-Softener-Use-In-Mobile-Auto-Detailing&id=41562

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Cleaning-Business-Case-Study-Entrepreneurship-&id=40939

http://ezinearticles.com/?Yacht-Winterization-Service-Business&id=39752

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Winterization-Services-and-Charges,-Part-I&id=39755

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Winterization-Services-and-Charges,-Part-II&id=39757

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Detailing-Stainless-and-Chrome-Cleaning&id=25182

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-and-Yacht-Detailing-Teak-Reconditioning-and-Care,-Detailing-the-Deck&id=24536

http://ezinearticles.com/?Reclaim-Equipment-Detailing-Industry-and-NPDES,-EPA,-Storm-Water-Rules&id=38599

http://ezinearticles.com/?Reverse-Osmosis-and-Deionized-Water-Filtration&id=41789

http://ezinearticles.com/?UV-Light-Water-Filtration-Devices-for-Flood-Victims&id=66501

http://ezinearticles.com/?Cleaning-Canvas-Tops-on-Boats&id=27285

http://ezinearticles.com/?Dock-and-Deck-Cleaning-Business&id=36449

http://ezinearticles.com/?Environmental-Boat-Washing-and-Detailing&id=36467

http://ezinearticles.com/?Preventing-Boat-Propeller-Injuries&id=49712

http://ezinearticles.com/?Adding-Battery-Cleaning-Services-Secrets-from-the-Auto-Detailing-Industry&id=25306

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Detailing-Diagnosing-Gel-Coat-Surfaces&id=25183

http://ezinearticles.com/?Cleaning-Sails&id=27847

http://ezinearticles.com/?Advice-for-Pressure-Washing-Companies-Cleaning-Marina-Docks&id=36454

[http://ezinearticles.com/?Mobile-Detailing-and-Environmental-Laws&id=27844]

http://ezinearticles.com/?Environmental-Compliance-Mobile-Auto-Detailing&id=36946

http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Detailing-Final-Process-in-the-Reconditioning--Applying-the-Protective-Sealant-on-Gel-Coat&id=25181

http://ezinearticles.com/?Dock-Cleaning-Procedures&id=36452

http://ezinearticles.com/?Hydrofoils-as-Strike-Vehicles-on-Water-Fast,-Safe,-Smart&id=25573

http://ezinearticles.com/?Marina-Dock-Cleaning-Equipment&id=36451

http://ezinearticles.com/?Tips-on-Marina-and-Dock-Sealing&id=36456

http://ezinearticles.com/?Water-Molecule-Alignment-for-Increased-Speed-In-the-Water&id=25572

http://ezinearticles.com/?Self-Cleaning-Counters-is-a-Smart-Way-to-Prevent-Diseases-in-QSRs&id=25196

http://ezinearticles.com/?Auto-Detailing-Choosing-the-Correct-Buffing-Pads-for-the-Job&id=25179


Water Volume Usage in Boat Hull Cleaning

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

RV Holding Tanks: 5 Simple Care and Feeding Ideas For A Great RV Trip

!9# RV Holding Tanks: 5 Simple Care and Feeding Ideas For A Great RV Trip

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[endif]

There are certain subjects we all like to avoid talking about in life- things that make us uncomfortable or cause controversy, like Mayonnaise or Salad Dressing, which President is the best or worst, having to watch personal care product commercials, Ford vs. Chevy, whose child or grandchild is smarter-but when is the last time you remember having a conversation about RV Holding Tanks, at least in polite company?

Recreational Vehicle Holding Tanks may not be the most glamorous topics, but without them your RV would be, well, a big stinkin' mess. For the purpose of this article, we will address holding tanks for vehicles that have shower and toilet facilities, as well as running water.

Your RV should have 3 separate and distinct holding tanks-

A 'white' tank for fresh water supply; A 'gray' water holding tank for waste water from sinks and showers; and A 'black' water holding tank for the commode waste products.

Every effort was made at the factory to keep these systems separate to avoid cross contamination and problems, and you should do the same. The following contains some specific information for each tank and the maintenance and care of that tank.

Whitewater (Fresh Water) tank: As you travel you may or may not keep fresh water in this tank-remember that a gallon of water weighs 8lbs so even a half filled tank can add extra weight to your vehicle, not mention the sloshing back and forth my cause some havoc with the way the RV handles. If you arrive at a campsite with a water supply bib, fill your tank then. If you leave home without water and the supply is no good when you get there, you will have another problem. A good idea is to use a water filter inline before filling your tank- it will catch most of the sediment that might be in the water supply. If your white tank begins to smell, follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to clean the tank.

'Gray-Black' Water Holding Tanks- the use and care of each of these tanks is much the same, even if the material inside is, well, different. Upon arriving at a site with an onsite dump capacity, hook up your sewer hose to the main drain valve. Make sure there are no kinks, holes and that the hose is all downhill- you might want to have some wooden blocks and/or an adjustable hose tray to position the hose correctly. Keep the drain valve to the black water closed and open the gray water. The generally accepted rule of thumb concerning the black tank is let it get 2/3 full before emptying.

The night before your departure, close the valve to the gray tank. When it is time for the tank dump, always start with the 'darkest' water first, so first dump the black tank (by keeping the valve closed in camp the liquids have stayed in the tank, so when the dump begins they will help flush the solids out); next dump your 'gray' water- this soapy mixture will help clean the sewer hose out; if needed or wanted, next dump your fresh water- it will again help clean the system. If needed, wash the hose out starting from inside with the toilet-some vehicles have a built in cleaning hose for this purpose. Always remember to use a separate hose for the water intake, and the cleaning of your system-keep them packed away from each other, and make them separate colors for easy identification. The following are some additional helps to make 'loving' your holding tanks easier-

Install a clear 45deg. Angled elbow pipe just before the drain valve- this allows you to see the change in the waste water color so you will know when your dump is almost over Before traveling drop some water softener into your tank. If you have ever taken a shower in a soft water shower, you know how slick your skin feels afterward, this is because the soft water allows the soap scum to just slide away. The same principle can work with the walls of your tanks- dump a couple of gallons of dry softener in a water solution -2 cups to a gallon of water- and the travel bumps will let the solution cover the walls of your tanks- you will be surprised at how much more waste is completely removed and it will add greatly to removing the stink. Always use Toilet Paper designed for RV or Septic Tanks- this paper will dissolve better and it will avoid getting wrapped around the valve sensors within the tank, giving false readings. Before dumping the 'Black' tank, dump a cup of laundry detergent to aid in cleaning. Whatever dump facility you use only dump waste products and waste water- never garbage or toxic chemicals. Many public park dump facilities are disappearing because of abuse. Have plenty of supplies on hand- disposable gloves (duh); anti-bacterial wipes; paper towels; tools to aid in obstinate connectors. Maintain your system at all times. If you have a problem with any part of your system and it needs to be fixed by a qualified RV mechanic, they will probably require that the system be cleaned and sanitized before working on it- but if your problem prevents sanitizing and cleaning, well, you can see the problem. Proper maintenance beforehand could be a lifesaver.

So, the proper 'care and feeding ' of your holding tank system can save you money, make your travel more enjoyable, keep your kids and spouse talking to you, and make your RV neighbors more likely to stay near you instead of as far away as can be had to avoid the ugly 'green' cloud over your RV.

Happy RV'ing!


RV Holding Tanks: 5 Simple Care and Feeding Ideas For A Great RV Trip

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Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Weekender - Portagold 200 Softener System

!9# Weekender - Portagold 200 Softener System

Brand : | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 03, 2011 04:31:15 | N/A


You'll be amazed at the clarity of ice, better tasting coffee and how great the shower looks without hard water spots. You can expect to realize exterior washing will take third less time and half as much soap. Additionally canvas, water heaters and pumps will last longer with soft water. Not to mention the water heater uses 20% less energy with soft water. The softener is easy to regenerate and designed to provide years of service. In fact we offer a 30 day try it out buy back guarantee and 3 year defect warranty. The softener is environmently friendly going longer between regenerations, using less than a gallon of water and ounce of table salt and uses a patented high flow media to maintain water pressure. Try one today, you've got nothing to lose except chore time.

More Specification..!!

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Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Do I Need a Steam, Ultrasonic Or Evaporative Humidifier?

!9# Do I Need a Steam, Ultrasonic Or Evaporative Humidifier?

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All humidifiers will add water to an atmosphere by either boiling water to create steam, releasing very fine sprays of moisture that evaporate or by evaporating water from a moistened surface through which air is blown.

The choice of humidifier will depend on your specific application, your available budget and your acceptable level of maintenance. Here is a brief overview of the three main types of humidifier used in domestic situations:

Spray / Ultrasonic
The cheapest type of domestic humidifier is often the ultrasonic, mist type humidifier. These units contain a reservoir of water and an oscillating plate. The intense vibrations caused by the rapidly oscillating plate cause the water to atomise into an airborne mist. A fan then blows this mist out of a vent and into the room.

These units are cheap to buy and also consume little energy when operating. However, the major disadvantage of using an ultrasonic humidifier is the dust that it introduces to a room. Any particulate matter that is present in the water will become airborne along with the water. When the water evaporates, the particulate matter will settle as dust in the room. This can aggravate symptoms in people with respiratory problems and therefore mitigate the beneficial effects of using the humidifier in the first place.

However, some modern ultrasonic humidifiers now incorporate technology that prevents this dust from being released. Some high quality ultrasonic humidifiers use demineralisation cartridges that absorb the minerals from the water prior to it being turned into a mist. This is very effective as long as the cartridges are occasionally replaced inline with the manufacturer's instructions. These types of modern ultrasonic humidifiers do cost more but the performance is head and shoulders above the cheaper ultrasonic humidifier.

Steam
Steam humidifiers provide very close control of humidity as the heat creating the steam can be rapidly increased or decreased in response to the room's current humidity. However, to provide this control they need to be used in conjunction with a humidistat. This does the same job as a thermostat but instead of controlling a heating or cooling system to maintain a set temperature, it controls a humidifier or dehumidifier to maintain a room's humidity.

Steam humidifiers provide very hygienic humidity control as the heating of the water kills all germs and the moisture released is sterile. A steam humidifier is the ideal choice for anyone with a respiratory illness, for raising the humidity in a nursery or for combating the symptoms of croup. They do need to be positioned out of reach when used in a nursery as the steam being release is obviously hot at the point of release.

This type of steam humidifier can be economical to buy in comparison with other types. Units that incorporate a humidistat can cost a bit more but have the advantage of not over-humidifying a room.

A disadvantage of using a steam humidifier is that they consume more energy than a spray or evaporative humidifier. A steam humidifier releasing up to 350g of water per hour may consume up to 325W per hour whereas an evaporative type of unit would only use between 10-20W.

The maintenance of a steam humidifier will involve occasionally removing the limescale that builds up inside the unit, similar to the scale that builds up in a kettle. This can be done relatively easily with a limescale removing powder. When not in use steam humidifiers should be emptied of water, cleaned and dried to prevent water stagnating inside the humidifier.

Evaporative
An evaporative humidifier introduces water into the air by allowing moisture to be simply evaporated. This consumes very little energy and is a hygienic way of humidifying as there are no aerosol sprays being released. Any particulate matter present in the water will remain in the humidifier after the water evaporates so there is no dust released into a room.

This type of system is also very quiet so can be used in a bedroom or similar quiet area.

There are two main types of evaporative humidifier. The more traditional type uses porous filters that are continually moisten and through which allow air is forced with a fan. As the air flows through the wet filter it picks up water and becomes optimally humidified.

The main disadvantage with this type of unit is that the filters need to be replaced regularly. The air in a home can be quite polluted with dust, skin, hair and other matter. These particles will be collected by the humidifier and remain on the filter as the air passes through. This has the advantage of cleaning the air but does mean the filters need replacing occasionally or they may begin to smell.

The other type of evaporative humidifier is an air washer. Instead of evaporative filters, an air washer incorporates many rotating discs that spin in a reservoir of water. A fan sucks air into the unit and forces it between the moist rotating discs, where it picks up water and becomes optimally humidified before being reintroduced into the room.

As the discs are made from toughened plastic, an air washer requires no replacement filters. The discs can simply be removed from the unit and cleaned. Some can even be placed in a dishwasher.

Cleaning will need to be carried out regularly to maintain hygienic operation but the frequency will depend on the quality of the room air.

Air washers have all the advantages of low running costs and air purification but with no ongoing commitment to buying spares. The disadvantage is that a quality air washer will cost more to buy than a filter-based evaporative humidifier but taking into account the savings on spares, the cost difference can soon be made up.


Do I Need a Steam, Ultrasonic Or Evaporative Humidifier?

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